Zimbabwe

The last time I blogged, I was job searching and visiting my brother and (not yet) sister-in-law in Guatemala. That was 3 years ago almost exactly. Since then, I moved to Athens, Ohio, where I have lived and worked since February of 2022. I have also traveled here and there. By my reckoning I have a backlog of 5 posts to do after this! But as this is my most recent travel, I thought it was a good place to start in getting caught up.

For some background: I work as a Whole Farm Program Manager in The Sustainable Agriculture program of an asset based community development organization, Rural Action. While my day to day consists mostly of beginning farmer support and resource management, I have been lucky enough to also engage in some international development work as well. This is mainly through a leadership development exchange program funded by the US State Department known as the Community Solutions Program (CSP). Through this program, we hosted two fellows for four months in 2022, one fellow from Tanzania, and one fellow from Zimbabwe. The fellow from Zimbabwe, Darlington Mafa, was hosted with us at the sustainable agriculture program. We became fast friends! From the day we met, Darlington and I were more like siblings than strangers so, when I found out that CSP allows for reciprocal exchange grants, we decided to pursue a project.

Fast-forward to Summer 2024, and I am informed that we have received the Community Collaboration for Impact (CCI) Grant, and I will be spending the first two weeks of October in Zimbabwe, working on a program of workshops and school visits that we modeled after my work at Rural Action, and reflective of the needs that Darlington’s nonprofit, RimaAfrika, has identified in Zimbabwe.

October 1: After around 24 hours of travel, a brief delay and overnight stay in Johannesburg, South Africa, I landed in Harare where Darlington was waiting for me at the airport. We spent the afternoon exploring the city (I finally got to meet Tracy, Darlington’s wife, and their kiddos!) and running errands to prepare for the next day and our first workshop on beekeeping in a rural village north of the city called Gweshe.

Gweshe: Beekeeping Training

October 2: Darlington and I held a beginning beekeeping workshop in the rural village of Gweshe, North of the capital city of Harare. The grant paid for transport to this village, alongside payment to a local beekeeper (Mr. Solo) who facilitated the training with his expertise as a beekeeper. Solo was able to communicate our materials in the local dialect, and the grant allowed basic beekeeping guides, a Kenyan Top Bar hive, and bee suits, smokers, and hive tools to be provided to the village to start their own beekeeping demo site, to be kept at the demo farm owned by a RimaAfrika partner. After the workshop and Q&A session, attendees ( 15 men, and 14 women, 2 facilitators ) participated in a grant funded meal.

Langham Girls School

Directly from Gweshe, we traveled on to Concession, and an all girls boarding school where we toured their grounds (almost all of their food is grown/raised on-site) and stayed with Darlington’s in laws, who both teach at the school.

October 3: In the morning we spoke to the Environmental Club at Langham Girls High School, discussing careers in agriculture, with an emphasis on exchange opportunities such as CSP, and beekeeping, as we were donating a hive to the school. The school has their own farm (produce, chickens, cattle, piggery, and fish farm) on-site, so we believed that an addition of an apiary would be complementary to their existing work. There were 48 students in attendance, alongside their club teacher, our educator Solo, and Darlington and myself.

Beginning Farmer Training

October 4: In the morning we met with mentor farmers Brenda and Precious in Norton Town, outside of Harare, and hosted beginning farmers on their two farming sites. Four aspiring farmers were in attendance, and an agronomist (Salome) was with us from the seed company Syngenta, sharing her experiences with small scale farmers in Zimbabwe. We introduced and handed out our beginning farmer toolkit with the aspiring farmers, and made plans to produce a revised version (with input from Salome) that is less general, and more targeted to farmers in Zimbabwe.

Agritourism Training

In the afternoon we visited the region of Mhondoro to see an example of potential Agritourism training. In addition to raising tomatoes in Norton Town, mentor Brenda has a herd of cattle in this area and the same group of trainees from the morning session visited her farm in a more rural setting of the country. It is Brenda’s hope that such visits to her greenhouses in Norton Town and her cattle ranch in Mhondoro could be potential tourist attractions, and we discussed those opportunities with the group and handed out our agritourism toolkit.

A break for some tourism…

October 5: We spent Saturday afternoon and evening at the Jacaranda Music Festival, a yearly celebration of local musical talent. The standout performance for me was Feli Nandi, who really moved me and made a lasting impression. I encourage you to listen to her music! Jacaranda is named after the iconic purple flowered trees (native to South America) that cover Harare, and I just happened to be in the city during their peak blooming time.

October 7: We spent the day prior driving South to Masvingo, and the site of the famous Great Zimbabwe. This was one of the two places I really wanted to go to for cultural exchange during my trip (the second being Victoria Falls). On the morning of October 7th we left Masvingo and drove to the site of the ruins. Great Zimbabwe is made up of dry (mortar-less) stone, and consists of the Hill Enclosure, said to be home of the reigning monarch, which overlooks the Valley Enclosure.

We started the hike up to the Hill Enclosure with our guide, who informed us that the site was constructed from the 11th century to the 15th century, and served as the capital of the Kingdom of Zimbabwe from the 13th century on. From the top of the hill, we had a stunning view into the valley below, home to the impressive Valley Enclosure. It was in the Great Zimbabwe museum in the valley that I learned that, when Zimbabwe was known as Rhodesia, the white government discouraged archaeologists from attributing this site to black Africans. After liberation, the new government named the country after this UNESCO world heritage site. The name “Zimbabwe” means “stone houses” in Shona, and the Zimbabwean flag also references the bird totems found at the ruins, as well as the conical stone tower in the Valley Enclosure.

This archaeological site was truly stunning, it was shocking to me to learn that this is not a well visited landmark by international visitors, as I consider it well worth the trek out to Masvingo from Harare.

Overlooking the Valley Enclosure (seen at the top right) from the top of the Hill Enclosure
The outer walls of the Valley Enclosure

October 7: After our visit to Great Zimbabwe, we made the decision not to return to Harare as planned, and instead continued on Northwest to Darlington’s hometown of Gweru. This meant we ended up traveling for a week with a small bag each, and I got to wear the two outfits I packed a fair few times.

October 8: In addition to spending time with Darlington’s family and neighbors, washing clothes, and generally getting ourselves organized, Darlington scheduled an impromptu meeting at his old primary school to discuss opportunities for collaboration with the agriculture teachers there. It is our hope that this connection could lead to another teaching learning apiary for the students. Following a full day, Darlington and I took an overnight bus to Victoria Falls, at the very Westernmost point of the country.

October 9: We arrived early morning to Victoria Falls, and after gathering ourselves, took a sunset cruise on the Zambezi. This is the fourth longest river in Africa, and borders Zimbabwe, Zambia, and Mozambique. On the river we saw elephants watering, hippos popping their heads up, and a truly stunning sunset.

Lesedi School Visit

October 10: We visited Darlington’s Food Sovereignty partner Romeo while in Victoria Falls to observe the work he was doing with students there. We discussed human wildlife conflict collaboration there, and visited a community nutrition garden. This garden gives families of students a place to grow for their families and for market. The campus itself includes a home economics education building, modern biology lab, computer lab, and school farm, chicken coop, and piggery that feeds a biogas installation. The gap that we discussed filling in future includes educational programming and funding for sustainable agriculture topics at the school.

Victoria Falls and Hwange National Park

October 11: On our last full day in Victoria Falls, I finally laid eyes on the falls themselves. Victoria Falls borders Zambia and Zimbabwe, and is 1,708 m (5,604 ft) wide, making it one of the world’s longest waterfalls. While water flow was low during my visit as it was dry season, it was still spectacular.

October 12: The benefit of traveling to Victoria Falls during dry season is that the animal viewing opportunities are wonderful, as wildlife gathers at water sources to get though the dry season. I knew we had to take advantage of this, and early on the morning of our last day in the West, we took a bus to Hwange National Park. There we had a guide for a day long safari in Zimbabwe’s largest nature preserve.

This was easily a top 10 nature based life experience for me. I took detailed notes with timestamps and hundreds of photos, so if you are looking into a safari and have any questions, please reach out. I highly encourage you to support the park-staffed safaris where possible, and avoid commercial outfits to get an authentic experience.

Observing the wildlife at a watering hole. Everywhere we stopped I wanted to spend hours, but as our guide explained (and he was very right) we had a day of excellent wildlife viewing ahead of us.
We managed to come upon two lionesses and a cub, sleeping off a large meal of a downed elephant we found nearby (16:30)
Sunset over Hwange. If you look closely in this photo you can find impala, alongside a herd of elephants (18:00).
Zebras, with a hippo getting ready to breach the water (18:15).

October 13: My last full day in Zimbabwe was spent souvenir shopping and observing more animals at Mukuvisi Woodlands. This is a far more accessible location for folks in Harare to see safari animals up (very) close and personal. It is here I first had the opportunity to observe the Eland, a very large antelope, and (according to Darlington’s family and others I met during my travels) my totem.

I will never forget the time I spent in Zimbabwe, and I am forever grateful to Darlington and his family, and to Tracy and her family, for welcoming me with open arms and introducing me to their beautiful country and culture. Zimbabwe is a country of many firsts for me, and I hope that someday I can return, and perhaps bring my own family to discover this truly special place.

Guatemala

It was my intention to catch up on my blogging of the rest of my semester in Iceland and my Spring term in Zanzibar (and Kenya, where we were eventually evacuated due to covid before going home 2 weeks early) before I peaced off to a whole other country that would require its own post, but alas. I went to Guatemala for 10 days. When your brother needs supplies from the US, and you want to cart some Spanish language books over to an Education Centre, you do it. I reminded myself that James began his fun trip to Greece in 2017/18? by stopping in Cameroon for a few days to see my village and drop off a whole suitcase for me, so it was very easy to tackle the challenge of packing the essentials for myself plus everything else I could think of to bring James and Lily in a carry on and person item. I packed 3 outfits, and I am quite proud. Despite being an RPCV, I have always tended to be an overpacker/preparer.

This foray into Central America was my first, and it surprised me how similar and different it was to Africa. It was a culture shock, but not in the way I anticipated. The pace of life was similar, I quickly learned that lazy afternoons were out of self preservation, as was common in my village. It was truly too hot to move between about 11am-3pm. I had to admit within the first day that it was even hotter than dry season in the Adamawa. The humidity of the jungle added an extra fun element and I found myself dripping sweat in new and fun places. And out of habit I had packed pants, used to Muslim communities. I wore a swimsuit half the time I was there. The next shock was the scale of development. Before I left, James told me that Guatemala is like Cameroon, but several decades more developed. I completely agree, the infrastructure is more present and fleshed out, they had a fair amount of tourism (the first thing I noticed was relative lack of plastic garbage), but there were still stands by the side of the road selling vegetables, and kids who couldn’t afford to go to school. This I am familiar with. Women also seemed more independent, while girls are still the first to miss out on education in deference to their male siblings, women rode motos, something I certainly never would have seen in the Adamawa.

The biggest culture shock of all for me was having to defer to my brother for all translation needs. I hadn’t realized how accustomed I was to being in charge while traveling, or how competent I felt navigating a developing country (at least at the end of my service in PC, compared to the beginning) until I realized I couldn’t haggle the bus prices down for us all. James did great though, and I’m sure if he spent 2 years in Guatemala he’d also only spend 25% more than locals for everything. So begins my journey in Guatemala, with James and Lily picking me up from the Flores airport, on September 12th.

I sat at the emergency exit on the way in, right on the propeller (my first prop plane!). I was pretty freaked out if I’m honest, I kept picturing it coming off and decapitating me, but I ended up opting for that seat on the way out.
I arrived very sweaty and regretting wearing my go-to saving space travel outfit of pants, fishing shirt, hiking shoes, and my travel vest
Arrival in El Remate. Lily and James’ place is gorgeous, a double decker wooden house with 2 bedrooms and plenty of outdoor space!

The first few days I got to see the local go to stores and what they offered (everything!! well, not really, but plenty for Lily to make some of the best food I’ve ever had) and we added the books I brought from the US to the ed center library. I also got to have a go at painting the shelves for the books, so they were all spruced up when the new ones were added. I sat in on James and Lily tutoring in English (they have several sessions a week at the center with especially motivated kiddos) and they did great! They use the same method I used when I taught English (via French and Fulfulde) and it’s perfect when you yourself are also trying to learn as you teach.

My favorite place to visit (other than the local ex-pat chill hang spot, the hotel/bar/restaurant/swimming spot “El Gringo Perdido”) was the permaculture farm Sol y Verde. This farm, started by an extension worker from the states named Andrew, accepts volunteer workers who work on projects ranging from tree planting to experimental vanilla propagation. We had the pleasure of planting a bit, and helping set some (also sort of experimental) mole traps, which we intended to deal with the very real mole problem the farm has. They wreck havoc on the plants with all their tunneling.

The plants we helped with came from the good sized nursery that the farm has going. They give some of these trees away for local people to plant, and experiment with planting techniques/locations/plant varieties on the farm.
James and Andrew setting a snare.

The visit to the farm was very interesting to me. Andrew knew a lot more about permaculture than I ever have, and it was cool to see what worked and what didn’t in Central America from a food security standpoint. I brought some resources about beekeeping with me (including a simple handbook I put together for those just starting out) but found out that lots of people kept bees locally, and mostly using modern techniques. I’m happy that Lily and James have a place they can go to do the kind of volunteering that you see the results from very quickly, but I do think their strengths lie in the long view of aid work: improving livelihoods through education and resource access. It’s a bigger time scale, but no less important than improving crop diversity or farming practices.

The tourism aspect of my trip was pretty lit too. We spent a few days at El Gringo, a place I would have sold my left kidney to have access to within walking distance in Cameroon (free coffee and tea and filtered water for volunteers?? a lake without schisto??), we visited the island city of Flores, and we trekked to Tikal.

Sibs pic at El Gringo
My favorite pic of James and Lily from the trip, for obvious reasons. Anyone who pushes my brother off a floating platform is in my good book for life.
I could tell that in normal tourist season, Flores would be bustling. It had lots of waterfront restaurants and neat little shops.
We got trapped at this restaurant during the normal afternoon downpour, which is good because Lily and I had some really fabulous local fish there.
I was shocked to find these Stela in Flores, apparently Guatemala is just riddled with them. I took an Intro to South America Archeology course in undergrad for fun, and used to be able to read some Classic Mayan written words. Not anymore!
I was hoping I had correctly identified this Stela as representing Chac, the Maya God of rain, but I have zero clue if I’m right.

Tikal. Oh my. Top 5 experiences of my life, without a doubt. We woke up at 4 am to make it to the top of the highest temple at the ancient Mayan citadel with plenty of time before sunrise. To do this, a guide takes you into the park in the pitch dark, and you climb up lots of stairs until you reach the top of Temple IV (the tallest at Tikal), which has no handrails. That’s ok though, because sitting up there in the dark and the fog is pretty distracting from how easy it would be to topple down the ancient steps and die. To my dismay (but understandably) you couldn’t enter the 3 chambered room at the top of the temple, which really made me seriously consider going to school for archeology just for the opportunity to do so, but the view made up for that. Holy crap. We didn’t see the sun as it came up due to the fog, but the general other worldliness of it all was really hightened by this fact. At one point we saw what I believe was Temple III (The Temple of the Jaguar Priest) through the fog, and I had to pinch myself. I felt like Indiana Jones. The freaky sound of the howler monkeys made it feel even more like a movie.

Long exposure of Temple I on our way into Tikal in the dark. The temples came looming out of the dark like something alien. It made an impression on me like no other large structure ever has. The whole area around the temples also had a unique mineral wet stone smell
The top of Temple IV, next to the entrance to the inner chambers.
Sibs pic! Temple Edition.
Main plaza at Tikal, facing Temple I (Temple of the Great Jaguar) from the top of Temple II (Temple of the Mask).
View of Temples III, II, and I (left to right) from the Lost World (Mundo Perdido) section of Tikal.
Temple V, my personal favorite. It isn’t the tallest but it’s so wide that it’s the most impressive to me. it’s a mortuary pyramid for an unknown ruler.
Overlooking the Main Plaza from the Central Acropolis (Palace Complex)

I can’t say enough about Tikal. I wish I’d had a week to see the rest of it all, but I think we really hit the highlights. If you ever have the chance to be on top of an ancient Mayan temple as the sun rises, take it. I have to thank my excellent hosts for such an amazing trip! James did a great job helping me navigate (and buy souvenirs, I got a really cool Guatemalan hammock, which I had plenty of space for on the way home), and Lily impressed me as usual with her ability to stand my brother for long periods of time, cook amazing food, and watch good tv with me (thanks for introducing me to Lost, Lily!). I had such a great 10 days in Guatemala, and I am happy to know that James and Lily are thriving there and having life changing experiences. The only consolation I had on having to return home was that I flew from Guatemala City straight to a Harry Styles concert in Chicago. Without that, I would have been pretty darn bummed!

If you’ve made it this far, great job! I hope to have more posts in future chronicling the trips I’v neglected, but until then I just have to find a real person job as a recent MA grad. As of now I have what I am calling a “full-time part-time job” or a full-time job not in my field, but I am hoping to have something I’m truly passionate about soon, whether that is located in the states or abroad again. We’ll see!

See yeeso, au revoir, adios, until next time!

Family UK Vacation Part 2

For the last week or so of the trip, I was traveling with my brother. During scheduling, we realized we had one free night, so I picked a city in between Edinburgh and our next destination, Inverness, and we went knowing very little about my pick (Perth).

As it turns out, it was a pretty interesting city.

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The Black Watch Museum at Balhouise Castle (17th century)

As we didn’t have a ton of time in Perth, I had researched a few stopping points beforehand to make the most of our stay. The first one was the Black Watch Museum, which ended up being far more interesting to James and to me than I could have ever hoped. The Black Guard is a infantry battalion of the Royal Regiment of Scotland, formed in 1881. Since it’s formation, it has served on every continent and every war that the UK has been involved in. They are, and I mean this with the deepest respect, complete Bad-Asses. I mean, seriously, They served in many of these places all over the world in kilts. If you ever find yourself in Perth, please consider giving it the museum a visit, and leave yourself several hours to appreciate it.

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I mean c’mon, how cool is this dude?

Our next stop was Huntingtower Castle, which was not open but we figured it would be impossible to stop us from getting near it for a look, which is what we did.

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This castle was built in the 15th century, and King James VI, the son of Mary Queen of Scots, was held here for 10 months as a prisoner in 1582.IMG-2621

The rest of the fun bits of this city involved a trip to “T.K. Maxx” and a very good Indian restaurant. The next day we were off to Inverness and a cabin on the Loch in Drumnadrochit.

We spent a decent amount of time in Drumnadrochit walking to and from the small local grocery store. Drumnadrochit is a little village on the edge of the Loch that runs on tourism during the peak seasons, which January is most decidedly not a part of. There were no open restaurants while we were there.

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The view from our Croft on the Loch

James and I certainly made do. I was happy to stay in Drumnadrochit the whole time, especially since the newly converted Croft we were staying in had a pull out bed in the loft which was situated by a wood burning stove, and the bathtub was enormous. The shower was luxurious as well. Some nights I took a bath AND shower.

Our very first day we walked into town to visit the Loch Ness Exhibit. Situated in the historical hotel where old timey people used to stay while on the search for Nessie, the exhibit reported the scientific findings on the Loch Ness Monster over the years. (Hint: they haven’t found her). It was an amusing stop, and we spent the remainder of the day grocery shopping and enjoying the Croft.

On the next day, our first full day on the Loch, we took a touristy cruise on the lake to get a closer view of the Urquhart Castle that we could see from our Airbnb.

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The castle was huge. The present ruins date from the 13th to 16th century, and the castle has been occupied by many different parties throughout history. The fortification played a part in the Wars for Scottish Independence in the 14th century, then was held as a royal castle before it was given to Clan Grant in 1509. Largely abandoned in the mid 17th century, it was partially destroyed in 1692 to prevent its use by Jacobite forces. We ended that day much like the day before, by walking to the grocery and back and getting nice and cozy in the Croft.

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Hiking

The next day we finally took a bus into Inverness. We walked around a bit, but found it to be more of a metropolitan area than what we were looking for, and decided to have lunch at a local restaurant called Cafe Artysan. As if the delicious food wasn’t enough, the Cafe also sold locally made soaps that smell GREAT. We headed back to Drumnadrochit and took a long walk around the lake.IMG-0203

All in all, Loch Ness was a highlight of the trip. I would highly recommend visiting on the off-season, as it is relaxing and I think you get a better idea of what the area is really like without all the cheesy tourist trappings.

The next morning, the 8th of January, we took a bus to Inverness, and from there a train to Thurso in Northern Scotland. Thurso was the nearest city to Scrabster Port with a train station that I could find. From Thurso we took a taxi to the Port and boarded a ferry. Ferry, in my opinion, is a vast understatement for this hulking behemoth of a ship that took us to the Orkney Isles. Then again, I’ve never been on a cruise ship so maybe this was a small ferry in comparison. We had apparently gotten very lucky because the day before a huge storm had come through the area and all of the ferries had been canceled. As it was, the ship was still rocking quite a bit, and James and I had fun walking around the ship like sailors three sheets to the wind. We arrived later in the evening, checked into our Airbnb in Kirkwall, and planned our next day.

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Near the Broch of Gurness, overlooking Eynhallow Sound

Day One in Orkney started at the Broch of Gurness. If you are an archaeological enthusiast, I highly recommend Orkney. I had spent many hours in Cameroon planning the most efficient way to get to all of the sites with our rental car, and lemme tell you, you cannot throw a very old rock of archaeological significance without hitting another very old rock of archaeological significance in this place.

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The Broch of Gurness is an Iron Age broch village on the northeast coast of Mainland Orkney, was settled around 500 to 200 BC, and used to be home to a substantial community. The gate to this amazingly ancient site was also open and there was no one there so we could have trampled all over it if we wanted. We didn’t though, because our mother raised us to respect Iron Age settlements, or something like that.DSCN4636

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The Broch

At the center of this settlement is a Broch (or tower) which once stood about 10 meters high. It was divided into rooms and was the heart of the community.

Next we went to Skara Brae, which was significantly more monitored and protected. There was a fence around it and a marked walking path.

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One of the eight clustered houses

Skara Brae is a stone-built Neolithic settlement from around 3180 BC to 2500 BC and is located on the Bay of Skaill on Mainland Orkney. My favorite part of this settlement and the Broch of Gurness were the odd little stone basins I kept seeing everywhere, which I later found out were used to store fish and bait for later use. Clever!

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Earl’s Palace in Birsay

We then drove to the Earl’s Palace in Birsay, not to be confused with the Earl’s Palace in Kirkwall that we visited the next day. Honestly, this place. The Birsay Palace is a ruined 16th century castle.

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The Standing Stones of Stenness

IMG-0338Our next stop were the Stones of Stenness. These babies were erected in the Neolithic period and may be the oldest standing henge in the British Isles. Based on radiocarbon dating, work on the site is thought to have begun around 3200 BC. This stone circle originally held up to 12 stones, with an additional standing stone called the “Stenness Watch Stone” outside of the circle that you drive past on you way to yet ANOTHER henge within spitting distance of Stenness.

The Ring of Brodgar needs to be seen to be believed. It is impossible to capture the scope of the whole circle in one photo, but you can get the scale of the individual stones with these pictures, keeping in mind I’m a little over 5’9″.IMG-0359IMG-0321IMG-0324

The circle was constructed around 2500 BC to 2000 BC and stands on a small isthmus. The diameter of the circle is 104 meters, and it originally consisted of 60 giant stones, of which only 27 remain today. With this huge monument, our first day was mostly over. We spent a few hours of the night driving around hoping to get a glimpse of the Northern Lights, but had no luck. James and I weren’t too upset though, as it’s more reason to come back and see the rest of the many things we didn’t have time to see.

The second day we started at the Italian Chapel.

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The Facade

The Italian Chapel was built by Italian prisoners of war during World War II. These prisoners were in Orkney constructing the Churchill Barriers, enormous boundaries of concrete sunk into the water between islands in Orkney to prevent German U-boats from entering the Scapa Flow. These barriers now act as convenient bridges between the smaller islands and the mainland. The Chapel was constructed out of two metal barracks stuck together and decorated with limited resources. The results are magnificent.

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We then traveled on to Mullhead Nature Reserve and a hike to see the sites there.

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“The Gloup”

First we encountered the Gloup, a collapsed sea cave at the start of our walk.

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We then trekked along the cliffs to the Brough of Deerness.IMG-0452

In order to get to the Brough, we had to head down to the water and then back up to get to the isolated little island. There we found the remains of the 10th century Brough of Deerness chapel and Viking Settlement.IMG-0433

We ended the hiking with a jog around the cliffs.IMG-2899

The last bit of daylight was spent exploring closer to our Airbnb in Kirkwall, and we visited the Earl’s Palace. Construction was started here in 1607.

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Earl’s Palace in Kirkwall

The Palace is right next to St. Magnus Cathedral, and absolutely gorgeous old church (and I should know, at this point I’ve seen a lot).

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St. Magnus Cathedral

With that, and a bit of souvenir shopping, our last day in Kirkwall was over. We were up before dawn the next day on a flight to Aberdeen and then London.

London Part 2:

During my very short stay in London with my brother I managed to visit Baker’s Street for the first time, shop at Lush, eat at Chipotle, and see a movie. But that was on the last day. Most of the remains of our first day was spent on the Harry Potter Warner Brother’s Studio Tour. Oh man. Here are some pictures, because they are better than words, and I shouldn’t need to label any of these props from the movie.

 

 

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All of the sets and props from the movies were amazing, but the bit that made me teary eyed was absolutely the scale model of Hogwarts. It was one of the coolest things I have ever seen in my life. IMG-3106IMG-3114

So that was a major trip highlight. The next day I insisted we wander around the perfectly decrepit and creepy Kensal Green Cemetery, which was opened in 1833. I think James was surprised at how interesting it was. I was surprised at how blatantly racist some of the tombstones managed to be, especially those of the government officials working overseas at the time (sculptures of natives holding up your tombstone, really???). IMG-3139

All in all, that was it for our short stay back in London before our flights home. The next morning, the 13th, we both had early flights so we got up before dawn (again) and headed to the airport. I was in Istanbul by lunchtime and in Yaoundé the next day at 2 am. Perhaps I shouldn’t end a post about a happy family vacation with a picture of a creepy cemetery, but that’s how it panned out. Thanks for reading Part 1 and Part 2 of this very lengthy vacation! I will be posting again soon about the results of the beekeeping training this weekend.

Family UK Vacation Part 1

It’s finally here! I’m doing it! The vacation post! This has been in the back of my mind since I got back from the U.K., but I put it off upon arriving back in Cameroon on the grounds that I had Mid Service Training (MST) the next day… actually, that day. (I landed around 2/3 in the morning day one of the training). Then I put it off on the grounds that it would make me sad to think about another year without my family. But here we are, 8 months until Close of Service (COS) and I’m chipping away at the three week family vacation adventure. I’d like to note I’m doing this on a laptop powered with my solar battery as the power has been out for days now. The lack of electricity is yet another excuse I use to put off blogging when this post seems too daunting. Alas, I have to get this done before this weekend, as I am headed into the city for our Beekeeping training! April 5th-7th is the long awaited training for the apiculture groups in my village and Casey’s village. After this is completed we can finally begin setting up the apiaries in our respective villages, there will be a post on that as soon as it happens. For now, here’s a link to my last Bee Update! 

In order to truly enjoy the weekend in Ngaoundéré and all the good food that entails, I have to finish all my little projects.

So, without further ado:

LONDON PART 1:

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The loooooooong awaited reunion

I arrived late in the evening on December 22nd at Heathrow Airport. A short Heathrow Express trip and a connection to the Underground later, I was somewhere near our Airbnb. The issue was that I had no idea where it was. My cousin Emily was already there and she had sent directions which I could access on the internet at the airport, but once I left Heathrow I only had my Cameroon SIM and it, surprise surprise, didn’t work in London. I was pretty turned around. I was in a legitimate city for the first time in over year and I couldn’t help but wonder if I looked as star struck as I felt. Tired, hungry, and simultaneously sweaty and chilly somehow, I struck out in a random direction. It was the completely opposite direction of the Airbnb, but allowed me to inquire at a local Boots (a store I could have spend 3 hours in, just looking at the shampoo options) about the street where the Airbnb was located. They told me, and I found it. This is something I would have only done in the US pre-PC in a nervous, not travel-related, sweat, so I felt pretty great about my personal development. The woman at reception let me in and asked if I was the girl coming from Africa because she had a key for me. I said I was the girl coming from Africa, and felt even more tired as I realized just 3 days previously I had been in my house in West Africa and had barely slept since then. Emily had gone out to get a SIM, so I had some alone time to just stare at things and take a hot shower and be less gross. Emily eventually came back, and we had dinner at a local pub, which was amazing and was of course never open again during our trip after I talked it up to my dad. After that, I waited for my parents. They arrived around 2:30 am and we had our little reunion. It was so great, I could hardly believe it. Eventually we calmed down enough to go to bed and were up fairly early the next day to get a start on things.

 

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The Shard through the early morning fog

We managed to pack a lot into this first day. Here are some highlights.

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Mom and Me in front of St. Dunstan in the East

DSCN4462This church was built on the site of a garden from Saxon times. It was restored in 950 AD, and rebuilt after the great fire in 1697 and finally damaged severely in the blitz. I firmly believe if more churches were actually gardens or just open to the air, more people would attend.

 

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My second ever visit to the Tower of London was extra special because I got to watch my mom and dad see the same things I saw not too long ago. See my Scotland and England Post if you want more musings on some of the places that were revisits for me this trip.

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Cheers with Dad! My parents didn’t really like the Sippa (Henna)

Dad and I had a tacit agreement to both order beers that we could share at mealtime to maximize the experience. I broke this a few times. to his dismay, by ordering stouts and sours and other weird (and fun) beers.

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One of my favorite parts of London at Christmas was the Christmas Market. They had amazing warm cider and wine, and great food choices. They also had a wonderful honey mead that I picked up to bring back as a gift to Cameroon, only to lug it around for another week to Scotland and give up and drink it by the Lock Ness. I stand by that choice.

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Cameroonian Representation!

A first visit for me was The British Museum. I especially appreciated the little bits of Cameroon like this jug, which my parents spotted for me. With the museum, our first day was done. I also bought new hiking/work boots somehow during this long day, but that didn’t earn a photo in the post.

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Our second day started with a trip up to the top of The Shard, yet another first for me.

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After the trip to the top of the Shard, we visited the Borough Market, which was overwhelming in comparison to my local village market day. We then headed back to the Airbnb, and Emily and my mom were nice enough to go ahead to St. Paul’s to save our space in the line to the Christmas Eve service while I took a nap.

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The Christmas Eve Service was pretty special, especially since I had only ever seen the cathedral during a brief tour when I was there in college. The music was beautiful and sounded right in the large space. We then returned to the Airbnb to eat food, drink wine, and exchange presents.

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Christmas Day we went on a red bus tour and stopped a few places to get out and wander about. We ended the day enjoying the London Christmas lights.

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On the 26th we walked around a fair bit, and I finally got to visit the location of the first public drinking fountain in London. I was pretty thrilled at the documentation of the birth of a public, and sanitary, drinking supply.

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I then dragged my poor father to The Ten Bells pub for a (much needed, for my father) pre-musical drink, only to find that it wasn’t open. I still got to see this last known location of one of Jack the Ripper’s victims, and we eventually got to a pub with a decent beer, so we were both happy and enjoyed the performance of Les Miserables. Seeing as how it was the first musical I ever student directed in High School, I was pretty much over the moon to see it done professionally. It was a great way to end our stay in London.

The next morning, we were on a train to Wales.

I’ve always wanted to go to Wales, ever since I learned that Lloyd originally came from the Welsh name Llwyd, and that it meant “grey” or “brown” or “holy”. I’ve never been quite sure which one is more accurate. I am sure, however, that both sides of my family have some ancestors from Wales, and, like lots of American mutts, I’ve always wanted to have a better understanding of the motherland. Sure, I’m Polish and German too, and I’ve been to those countries and felt pretty much at home (especially in my favorite city, Kraków) but there was something special about Wales to me. I mean, I ended up with the freckles in the family, I wanted to see where they came from. I was not disappointed. We stayed in an Airbnb that I tragically forgot to take a photo of. It was called “The Cwtch” (Welsh for a cubbyhole or a hug) and was about as cozy as you can get. A log cabin with a sleeping loft set right on the edge of Brecon Beacons National Park. I’d go back in a heartbeat. We’d picked up a rental car when we’d first arrived the evening before (a nightmare on the narrow Welsh roads, with my father driving on the WRONG SIDE OF THE ROAD) so we drove to several hiking spots on our first full day. The first was called Owl’s Grove. Enjoy these pictures of a mossy fairyland, I suggest a Hozier album as background viewing music.

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Remains of a bridge

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From there we headed to another hiking path, this time with waterfalls.

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After all that hiking, we were starving. We ate at the Red Cow Inn, where I had one of my favorite meals of the trip. We ordered appetizers, I had a Christmas Ale, and I fell asleep promptly afterwards in the car. It was what late-night Cameroonian PCV dreams are made of.

Our second full day was just my mom and dad and me, as Emily had gone off to explore Stirling Castle in Scotland. We started our exploration at one of my favorite tourist spots that I’ve ever visited: The remains of Tintern Abbey. The ruins of this 13th century abbey are breathtaking. Seeing this abbey in person is a religious experience, and not just because it used to be used for such purposes. As I said earlier, an open church is just about as good as it gets, in my opinion, for getting close to the spiritual, and this place was ten times the size of the ruins of the church in London. Add to it’s size the surrounding countryside framed by skeletal stone windows, and you have a masterpiece. Here it is, from just about every angle:

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Some of the fallen stonemasonry

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I figured nothing could ever top that, but we did visit several other interesting sites that day.

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Monnow Bridge

The Monnow Bridge in Monmouth was built circa 1270 as a town defense and is the only surviving medieval bridge in Britain with the gate tower still standing. This gate tower was used as a toll-house, guard room, and dwelling house.

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Raglan Castle

Raglan Castle was also a fascinating visit, a medieval castle in use between the 15th and 17th centuries. Unfortunately it was destroyed after the English Civil War to prevent military use.

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Cemetery in Llanelly-Gilwern

As if all that wasn’t enough walking about, we ended the day with a very long uphill hike, but I was satisfied with it all at the end because I got to wander around a very old and very mossy cemetery.

The next day we returned the car and were off to Edinburgh, one of my favorite cities, for Hogmanay! Here James met up with us, and the Lloyd family was complete again!

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Celebrating Hogmanay (the Scottish New Years celebrations) in Edinburgh is a once in a lifetime chance that I highly recommend. The festivities began the day before New Years Eve with a torch procession. And these are NOT the tiny candles I imagined we would be carrying when I thought of fire safety restrictions and the other laws that would be in place for a similar activity in America. Oh no, in Scotland they trust you with full blown sticks of fire (whether they should trust tourists is another matter, several young women from not-Scotland almost lit me on fire while they were taking a selfie). This procession follows the Royal Mile down to King Arthur’s Seat and ends in a party and fireworks. We watched the fireworks, but did not stay for the party.

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On New Year’s Eve we decided to visit the Palace at Holyrood and Holyrood Abbey. This was very exciting for me because the last time I was in Edinburgh the Queen was in residence so I couldn’t do the tour.

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On this day we also went to see the Royal Yacht Britannia, which I do not have a photo of because I skipped that and got my eyebrows done, bought new underwear at H&M, and stared at stuff in a Boots for about an hour. I have since seen the ship in the “The Crown”, but I still think I got the better end of the deal on this one.

On the first day of the new year we lost Emily, because she had to return to America. The Lloyd clan spent the day visiting Edinburgh castle (I again refer you to my post about Scotland because I didn’t bother to take pictures this time) and went to the Royal Museum of Scotland. Oh boy. What a place. I didn’t even know it existed until we walked by in search of food, but I could have spent our entire trip there. It is full of amazing and varied exhibits, there really is something for everyone.

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Ornate Drinking Fountain

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Dolly the Sheep (and first mammal clone)

The next day we trekked to St. Andrews so my father and brother could go see A Very Old Golf Course™ and my mom and I enjoyed the beach. I have been to the beach pretty much every year of my life, so it was nice to see it again.

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Doc Martens on the beach, a first time for everything

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We then headed to Stirling Castle, which Emily had visited earlier in the trip and had given her seal of approval. It was full of history that I really appreciated, being obsessed with all period dramas involving Mary Queen of Scots and Queen Victoria, both of whom had been to this castle.

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I posed by the statue of Robert the Bruce, who unfortunately did not resemble Chris Pine.

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That day, I found out that my roommate from my study abroad program in Freiburg, Germany just happened to also be on vacation in Edinburgh. Seeing as how she was currently teaching in Germany, I was living in Africa, and we had also previously found each other on separate vacations in Venice in a random piazza (see Three Countries, One Post) I was completely amazed.

We met up the following day. We hunted for the tombstones that inspired J.K. Rowling in the Harry Potter series, and we got a haircut together, my first professional one in over a year. Luckily, Anna also needed a haircut because she had been avoiding getting one in German. I could completely sympathize.

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The 3rd of January was also my last full day with my parents.We had a nice dinner and my mom and I went out for a fancy cocktail and a chat.

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The next morning, James and I sent out parents off on a train bound for London. We initially planned on going back to nap and take a late train to the start of the siblings leg of the trip in Perth, but I found myself antsy and ready to move on. We were on our way an hour later.

I’m going to end Part 1 here, although Part 2 will be significantly shorter because James and I have a more leisurely approach to travel so we did things more slowly and I took less pictures. I am afraid that if I try to squeeze Perth, Loch Ness, the Orkney Isles, and London into this post it might never upload. So, Part 2: Lloyd Sibling’s Adventure will be up tomorrow!

 

Scotland and England

My last week in Europe followed my final week in Freiburg. After the going away dinner with my fellow IES students, Kenny and I caught an early morning flight from Basel to Edinburgh. We started our day out right with some amazing tea and a full Scottish breakfast (I had blood pudding and loved it).

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Edinburgh Castle

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The Royal Mile

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Entrance to the Castle

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The Royal Palace

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The Great Hall ceiling

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The Great Hall

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Mons Meg

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St. Margaret’s Chapel (12th Century)

One of the coolest buildings we saw at the castle was the chapel, the oldest standing building in Edinburgh. After our explorations of the fortress it was time to try some famous Scotch whisky.

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We tried some delicious Scotch samples here

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The huge whisky collection

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Oldest whiskys in the collection

Kenny and I decided to explore some old cemeteries of course. These photos are from the Old Calton Burial Ground.

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We climbed up to Calton Hill..

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The National Monument

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Nelson Monument

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And then cut through another cemetery on the way to the palace.

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The Queen happened to be in residence! You can see in these photos the Royal Banner of Scotland is out.

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I then indulged Kenny in what ended up being an amazing tour of the relatively new Scottish Parliament. We couldn’t see some of the main rooms so we got to be the few people to actually go inside the offices of the parliament and sit in the famous “think pods”.

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Scottish Parliament

We then climbed up to Arthur’s Seat, which was more difficult than I expected. The wind was so strong up there that it stole your breath away.

 

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Arthur’s Seat

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People were actually falling over from the force of the winds, I could barely snap a picture

We then trekked to Craigmillar Castle, where I found out some scenes from Outlander season 3 had just been filmed!

 

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Craigmillar Castle

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Dining Hall

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The castle was in pretty amazing shape. considering. That night we did a Ghost Tour of Edinburgh, which took us into the amazingly creepy underground vaults.

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Underground Vaults

The next day we took a bus to Glasgow, and I was not nearly as impressed. It was an interesting city, but not my type of sight-seeing. We checked out the Glasgow Cathedral and the Necropolis (Kenny and I like cemeteries) but headed back to Edinburgh sooner than we had planned.

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After our adventures in Scotland (P.S. haggis is delicious!), we took a bus to our last destination, London.

We got the London Pass, and decided to spend our first day there taking a tour bus and getting acquainted with the city.

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The Tower of London

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London Eye

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Parliament

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Horse Guards

We walked to Buckingham palace from our hotel just off of Hyde Park.

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Buckingham Palace

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We spent a few hours exploring Kensington as well, which I found very interesting since I love everything involving Queen Victoria.

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Queen Victoria Statue

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Kensington Palace

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Where Victoria and Albert met!!!

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Victoria and Albert

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The White Gardens, Memorial to Princess Diana

Luckily, the London Pass let us skip the lines at the Tower, so we got to see a lot there.

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Me, trying to gather myself before entering the tower

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White Tower

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Jewel House

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Tower Bridge (from the Tower)

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We also made a special stop at Lloyd’s so I could get some souviners and some cheesy pictures.

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Lloyd in London at the Lloyd’s of London

We then hopped on a boat (also included in the London Pass) and traveled down the Thames.

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The Shard

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London Bridge

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Millennium Bridge (aka Harry Potter Bridge)

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We got off at Westminster and went inside (unfortunately there was no photography allowed). It was crazy to see the burial places of so many famous monarchs and historical figures.

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Westminster Abbey

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We then made a short stop at Whitehall, which had an amazing ceiling by Peter Paul Rubens. This banqueting hall functions as both a museum and an event space.

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Banqueting Hall at Whitehall

One of the coolest things that I saw in London was the Churchill War Rooms. It was like stepping into history.

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Bomb Shelter

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Churchill’s Kitchen

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Secretary Desks

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There’s Freiburg!

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Churchill’s Room

The last good picture I have is from our trip to King’s Cross, where I got to see Platform 9 3/4.

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Platform 9 3/4!

London was amazing. I feel like I saw a lot of what I wanted to see, but that was only scratching the surface. I will absolutely have to visit again.

Well, that does it for that Europe trip. Now all I have to do is pick out a few choice pictures from trips to 11 countries and 22 cities and gather my hundreds of souvenirs into something resembling a scrapbook. Wish me luck!

Paris, Naples, Pompeii, and Rome

Ok, on to my last few adventures in Europe. I met up with Kenny in Paris, and then we made a trip to Naples, where we visited the ruins of Pompeii. Whe then spent a few days in the wonderful city of Rome. I was surprised by how much I ended up liking Paris and Rome, as I don’t typically like everything about big busy cities! Paris was amazing, and we had some really great food and saw some amazing buildings. We started with an afternoon walking around and taking in the city…

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Classic Eiffel Tower photo-op

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Saw this nice little tidbit in the Catacombs

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Notre Dame

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We then spent a few hours (not nearly enough!) at the Louvre.

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Pyramid of the Louvre

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The woman herself!

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Roman mosaic floor

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Kore! I studied this in my Greek/Roman sculpture class

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Iznik tile panels

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Diana of Versailles

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Kenny in front of the Metro!

We spent the better part of a day at Versailles, which was a short train ride away.

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On the way to Versailles

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Versailles Orangerie

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Kenny and I took a row-boat out in the gardens

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Kenny at the Palace!

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Hall of Mirrors

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The Battles Library

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Leto’s Fountain

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The Ballroom Grove

Our last day we traveled to the Basilique, and my camera died… But I managed to snag a few pictures before our too short time in Paris came to a close!

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Basilique du Sacre-Coeur

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The view from the Basilique

Our next big trip involved a flight to Naples (which I did NOT like) for a day at Pompeii, and then a train to Rome.

The Roman Forum at Pompeii was unreal..

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Off the Forum we saw our first famous casts of the people who died at Pompeii

The baths of the Forum were very well-preserved, it was amazing to see the pigments on the walls.

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Wine shop!

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More creepy casts

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Villa frescos

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Mosaic Fountain

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Old Fountain (these still worked as drinking fountains!)

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Amphitheatre

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Forum (with Vesuvius in the background)

Our next big trip was to Rome, where I was blown away by the ruins and everything wonderful about the city

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We had some amazing lighting for our first glimpse of the Colosseum

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Arc of Constantine

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This is the side where they stripped the marble during the Middle Ages for other building projects

During our first day in Rome we mainly wandered about and picked out areas to revisit later for a longer time. This is the Roman Forum, which we toured later.

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Kenny and I got the Omni Pass, which included free entry into a lot of the places we wanted to see, and also gave us a guaranteed time to go to the Vatican…

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Caryatid

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The Gallery of Maps

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School of Athens by Raphael

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Vatican City

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Me dressed very appropriately (and sweating my face off)

We got to then skip the line and head into the basilica…

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La Pieta by Michelangelo in St. Peter’s Basilica

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We finally went into the Colosseum itself and it was amazing.

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The sheer size of the place was unreal. We then moved on to explore parts of the city we had not yet seen.

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The famous Trajan Column

We actually ended up stumbling upon the Pantheon after getting lost looking for it several times.

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It’s very important to stay hydrated when sight-seeing

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Trevi Fountain

The next day we spent a good deal of time at the ruins of the Roman Forum, which we massive and incredible.

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These holes are an old game carved into the steps of the Basilica Julia

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Basilica Julia

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The Stadium on Palatine Hill

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Circus Maximus

We didn’t make it inside the Pantheon until the next day, before we left, but boy was it worth it.

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Ok, that’s it for those trips! All I have left is Scotland and London and that wraps up my time in Europe!

 

 

 

 

Three Countries, One Post

It’s been awhile! I’m home now, and since I last posted I had a weekend away in Berlin and then Pentecost break with the rents in München, Salzburg, Florence, Cinque Terre, and Milan. I then met Kenny in Paris, went to Rome, Edinburgh, London… But one step at a time.

I’m afraid that all of my photos from the week with my parents are iPhone pictures because I handed over the responsibility of photographer to my dad (willingly and gratefully) but if you use the internet at all you’ll have seen all of his Facebook posts, so I’ll try not to be redundant.

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Enjoying some wonderful German food. Berlin is the first time I’d seen my parents in months!

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I insisted on a visit to Potsdam again, this time the boxes were gone (if you remember my previous post on Potsdam) and the sculptures could be seen!

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Dad and I enjoying a beer after a long walk around Potsdam

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The Ishtar Gate at the Pergamon Museum

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Market Gate of Miletus

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Dad and I at the top of the Berlin Cathedral

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I met up with an old friend in Berlin! Ryan was traveling with his acapella group

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Have to take that wall pic

I then went home for a week of classes, and my official trip with the rents began. And boy, was it a doozy. It all started in München…

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I showed my parents a few of my favorite places (this is the Viktualienmarkt)

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And we went somewhere I’ve never been! This is the Nymphenburg Palace

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It was the main summer residence of the former rulers of Bavaria the House of Wittelsbach

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They owned an AMAZING collection of sleighs

Next it was on to Salzburg, which was a real treat. We did some exploring on our own and then did a day with the Sound of Music tour and a quick trip to some salt mines.

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Yet another German meal, this time in Salzburg, Austria!

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We went up to Untersberg

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It had some amazing views

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The Hohensalzburg Castle from below

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The inside of the Salzburg Cathedral (it was all lit up, there was a massive religious convention in town that day)

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The view from the Hohensalzburg Castle

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One of the old doors in the Golden Chambers, which the Archbishop began to build in 1498!!

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Lepoldskron Palace, the back of the “Von Trapp” house

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The Gazebo from the Sound of Music!

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The Cathedral from the wedding scene in the movie (Mondsee Cathedral)

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Mirabell Gardens

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The steps in Mirabell Gardens

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These gardens are where “Do Re Mi” was filmed

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We ended our time in Salzburg with a tour of the Salzburg salt mines

Then, the next leg of our trip began! To Italy, first stop, Venice (for a few hours).

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Venice was busy, but pretty

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I ran into my roommate (which was insane as we hadn’t been able to contact each other to meet up)

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St. Mark’s Basilica

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Piazza San Marco

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Venice was very interesting, and I’m glad I ran into my roommate Anna, but it was honestly too crowded for me. I’d been to some major cities at that point, but Venice was a bit much for me. We got on the connecting train to Florence with a bit of relief, I think.

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Winery tour in Chianti

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Piazza del Campo in Siena

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Basilica of Santa Maria Novella

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Courtyard of the Novella

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Florence Duomo

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il Duomo

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Giotto’s Bell Tower

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Palazzo Vecchio

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Ponte Vecchio

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The Birth of Venus

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Venus de’ Medici

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Reclining Ariadne

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Farnese Hercules

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DAVID

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The man himself at the Galleria dell’Accademia

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Il Porcellino (in the Mercato Nuovo)

 

 

 

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Palazzo Pitti

Florence was AMAZING, and I would love to go again to spend more time with the art. From Florence, we took another train to Cinque Terre!

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Monterosso al Mare

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A view from our hike from Monterosso

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Vernazza

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Riomaggiore

From Cinque Terre we headed to Milan, where my parents left early in the morning for home, and I spent a day with a tour group seeing some of the major parts of Milan before heading home for Freiburg.

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Sforza Castle

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Santa Maria delle Grazie

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Atellani House

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Vigna di Leonardo

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Leonardo’s Vineyard

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The “false apse” (Trompe-l’œil) by Donato Bramante

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Santa Maria presso San Satiro

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Duomo di Milano

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St. Bartholomew Flayed, 1562

My tour ended at the beautiful Cathedral, and I spent the next few hours wandering around the city, ending in a botanical garden. Overall the day alone wasn’t too bad, and I made friends with some of the tour group! It was home to Freiburg again, and then on to a bunch of trips with Kenny (pictures and posts from those adventures are coming soon , I promise!)

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Orto Botanico di Brera

Vosges

Last weekend was the IES hiking trip to the Vosges mountains in France! We stayed in a cute hotel that fed us obscene amounts of potatoes and cheese, and I kept getting merci and danke mixed up. It was amazing.

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We saw cows being herded across the mountains with massive bells on their necks.

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We found a cave where I may or may not have smacked my head on a rock with surprising force.

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We found an inchworm!!!

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Michael got super into explaining something (he’s one of the IES teachers and led the hikes)

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We went into an old WWI bunker and I got a bunch of rusty metal in my hair. It was super cool and also dark and creepy.

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Day two was full of super cool vistas and lakes.

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We found an excellent example of the doctrine of signatures, a lichen that looks like lungs and was used to treat lung diseases. It turns out that this one is actually true!

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The sole came off of Rachel’s shoe and Race had to fix it with a strip of duct tape. Very reminiscent of when Garret (also pictured) had his actual toe stuck back together in Portugal by Anna.

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It was an amazing hiking trip! And now it’s only 4 days until I meet the rents in Berlin!!!

Wien

So last weekend I took a trip to Vienna (Wien) with Halsey and Fiona. We took an overnight bus there and back, and stayed in an absolutely amazing Air BnB!

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We started with a big breakfast!

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And then we were off the explore the Schönbrunn Palace, the casual summer home of the Habsburg monarchs…

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Complete with the replica of Roman Ruins, built in 1778…

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An Obelisk fountain from 1777…

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And MUCH more, which we would discover when we went back on Sunday!

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After we checked in to our home for the weekend, we picnicked in the park by the Prater.

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And saw the famous Wiener Riesenrad, built in 1897

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We opted for a more open air experience, and swung around the park at a rather impressive height, scoping out places we wanted to go the next day.

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One of which was the Belvedere, the Baroque palaces for the Habsburgs, started around 1712.

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Here is the Upper Belvedere, which houses an art museum that boasts a huge collection of Klimt, including The Kiss and Judith, which I couldn’t take photos of, and Napoleon Cross the Alps. I had no idea that the Napoleon portrait was there, and it took me completely by surprise. It is crazy to think that now I have seen that painting AND the Alps themselves.

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The lower Belvedere boasted some pretty amazing rooms.

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The Lower palace also had an amazing collection of Lawrence Alma-Tadema, who did many works on classical-subjects, and is now alongside Mucha as one of my new favorite artists.

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We stopped for a traditional Austrian lunch, and the crew was already sick of me taking pictures of them…

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We stumbled upon an old WWII monument that I couldn’t read.

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And then went to Karlskirche. Which was nuts.

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This Baroque church was consecrated in 1737, and was built after a large plague epidemic, dedicated to the saint of plague sufferers

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The coolest part about this church was that we could go all the way to the top. This is the very top ceiling fresco.

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Here is a fresco of God sparing the plague sufferers…

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An Angel destroying heresy (note the only legible word is Luteru, a reference to Luther, the Lutheran upbringing in me cringed a bit)

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We walked past the famous Vienna Opera, complete with cute stoplight.

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And stumbled upon the Hofburg, with a Mozart impersonator!

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Then it was on to St. Stephen’s Cathedral, where we happened upon a very important mass…

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A Bishop was there! I think, I’m not familiar with the different ceremonial garb…

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We then followed the crowd and accidentally sat through an hour of Catholic mass in German (I had hoped some of it would be in Latin because then I’d actually understand it) and I managed to simultaneously have no idea what was going on AND when I tried to fit in more I completely crossed myself backwards. The singing was absolutely gorgeous though, Ave Maria was written to be sung in cathedrals.

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The next day it was back to the Schönbrunn!

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We went inside the Palmenhaus.

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I gave Halsey the camera…

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We went into the desert house and I saw a REAL LIFE WELWITSCHIA MIRABILIS. It’s the only species in its family!!!

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The Neptune Fountain.

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Me!

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The crew!

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Me and the crew! (I have to say that I brightened those photos up, you couldn’t see anything otherwise)

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The Gloriette, in all its glory.

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A shameless posed photo, senior picture style.

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And we ended our trip through the Naschsmarkt!

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Overall an amazing time, Wien is an amazing and beautiful city!

Prague

We started our trip to Prague with a walk around the famous Prague Castle.

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The St. Vitus Cathedral was as beautiful as I’d been told!

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We saw the statue of St. George, a common emblem here, as he slays the dragon.

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We had lots of Trdelník, a traditional pastry is Prague.

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The inside of the Basilica of St. George.

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The Golden Lane was about as crowded as could be. It dates back to th 15th century, and used to be home to the palace goldsmiths.

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There was a bunch of kitschy touristy stuff, like a torture chamber.

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St. George again!

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The Old Royal Palace (current building) dates back to the 14th century, but the original goes all the way to the 9th century!

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The inside of St. Vitus Cathedral!

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Construction of the current cathedral started in 1344, but there has been a building here since 930!!

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The stain glass window done by the famous Mucha, one of my favorite artists.

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I have zero idea who is in this coffin but a lot of Russians were VERY interested in it…

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The beautiful Charles Bridge.

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Old Town Square was absolutely bustling.

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We did a tour of the Old Town Hall, which dates back to the 14th century.

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These murals of “Slavdom’s Homage to Prague” were made in 1939 and hidden with plaster during WWII in order to protect its images of nationalism.

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The 12 Apostles from the medieval astronomical clock, installed in 1410, the third oldest in the world and oldest still in operation.

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This room is one of the few that is still completely original in the Old Town Hall (due to fires) and had one of the best preserved medieval ceilings in the world. It dates to the 14th century.

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All of this door is original too, including the hinges AND the key!

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The underground rooms used to actually be on the ground floor, but were covered in order to mitigate flooding issues in the city.

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At one point it was used as a prison, and was covered by graffiti, see the one from 1699?

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I ended my time in Prague with beautiful views of the city from the tower! It was a wonderful trip, and so great to see family again!